Monday, September 28, 2009

from Notes from a Diary, Kept Chiefly in Southern India, 1881-1886 By Mountstuart Elphinstone Grant Duff, 1886


We gave an hour to Piacenza, and an hour may well be given to the fine, though dilapidated, cathedral and the Palazzo del Comune of this sadly fallen place, where the passage of a carriage from the railway station, with two strangers in it, is so remarkable that the very priest, who is carrying the Viaticum, stops to stare and to gossip with his attendant about so unheard of a circumstances!

from Autobiography of Miss Cornelia Knight, Lady Companion to the Princess ... by Ellis Cornelia Knight


We liked Genoa much, but were compelled to leave it when the intrigues of the revolutionary government of France rendered this city an undesirable residence for English families. On our way to Rome we stayed a few days at Parma, the sovereign of which was greatly beloved by his subjects, for, it was said, he had never refused a petition, and never imposed a new tax. There was no appearance of poverty in his states, and I never saw a more happy people. How he and his country were treated by the French republicans is matter of history. Both Parma and Piacenza were free cities.
A few years after this visit I became acquainted with a regular canon of the great church of Piacenza, and who, according to custom, had his own cenfessional box. One day, after the French occupation of the country, he entered the church, with the intention of taking his own seat, but was surprised at not finding the confessional in its proper place. After looking about for it in all directions, he found it in a gallery lying on its side, and on the top of it the dead body of a French soldier, which three surgeons, or surgeon's mates, of that army were busily skinning. Horrified at the sight, he asked the meaning of this ghastly proceeding, and was told that some scientific men had discovered that the human skin made excellent leather. It had, therefore, been ordered that all dead bodies should be skinned, for the purpose of providing boots and shoes for the soldiers.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Some account of my life and writings: an autobiography (1883) by Sir Archibald Alison 1828


VISIT TO LORD BYRON
Having rejoined our carriage and the great road at Martigny, after ten days of exquisite enjoyment, we crossed the Simplon, and, after visiting the Italian lakes, repaired to Milan. Thence we went to Placentia to visit the double field of battle — of Hannibal against the Romans, and Suwarrow against Macdonald — which lies on the banks of the Trebbia, about three miles from that city. We went to the spot with Livy in our hands, and identified the features described by his graphic pen, particularly the hollow banks overhung with brushwood, unchanged after the lapse of two thousand years. 
With some difficulty I made myself master of the movements of the French and Russians on the same ground in recent times ; and it was there that I first recollect figuring to myself the description of a battle on the ground where it actually occurred. 
Next morning at Placentia I saw the two bronze statues of the Duke of Parma and another hero ; and I then felt for the first time that much of the effect of sculpture when in the open air consists in its being placed in a small square ; so small as to render the statue a considerable object with reference to the adjoining buildings, and to prevent it from being seen but at the proper distance, so as to have this effect preserved.

from a letter of Francis Marquess Of Tavistock To The Earl Of Upper Ossory, Paris, Sept. 12, 1763


... At Placentia, (for I shall observe the route I went, in speaking of the different places ; if you don't do the same, it will make no difference), — at Placentia, I say, you must see two equestrian statues in the Piazza; I did not much like them myself, but they A.D. are much admired, and I believe with great reason. You must absolutely see St. Augustino, a church built by my favourite architect Vignola...

from L'Hermite en Italie, The LATEST WORK Of MR. JOUY. TUESDAY, APRIL 13, 1824

[sul gioco del Cucù] 

I had at first intended to go directly to Florence,"by the way of Placentia and Parma; but my wish to enjoy for'a longer time the society of my new fellow-traveller caused me to change my direction, and I determined to accompany him to Bobbio. ...
In the course of the evening we played the game of chuchu (pronounced kookoo) which is suitable only for numerous parties. The pack is composed of nineteen double cards, each bearing u number from one to fifteen ; on five of the cards, between five and fifteen, are represented either a prison, a cat, a horse, a bregou, or the chuchu, or crowned owl, which is the highest card. On five other cards are grotesquely painted the representations of a fool, a bucket, a yellow mask with long ears, and the word nulla; the bucket is of less value than nulla, and the yellow mask is the lowest card of all.
" When each person has received five counters, and deposited his quota in the pool, the cards of the two packs are shuffled and dealt by the person who cuts them, each player receiving only one card. If the player on the right of the dealer is not satisfied with his card, he may pass it to his neighbour, unless the card hdld by the latter confer on him the privilege of making the former keep his card, which he is then compelled to do, however bad it may be. This exchange of cards is continued throughout the whole circle, till it comes to the turn of the person on the left of the dealer. When a player meets in the hand of his neighbour, the priton, the bregou, or the chuchu, his card is stopped, and he puts a counter into the pool. If he meets the cat, his card is passed from player to player till it comes into the hands of its first owner. If he meets the hone, bis card is passed to the person immediately below him who holds the horte; when two foolt meet, the persons holding them are entitled each to take a counter from the pool, and that is called faire firinc. In short, when the circle is completed, those who hold the lowest cards are condemned to put a counter into the pool, and the game is repeated till only one counter remains. The person who holds this, wins the game.
This game was the constant amusement of the numerous parties of the Marchioness. The packs of cards are sold at Placentia, and entitled, by the manufacturers, Nuovo e dilettevole giuoco del Chuchu, o giuoco del tratto In Pia cenza; that is, the new and delightful game of the chuchu, or fool at Placentia.

from a Letter of Richard Twining dated September 1827 (from Selections from Papers of the Twining Family, 1887)

At Monza we visited the cathedral, saw the iron crown, and other treasures of the church, passed over the bridge of Lodi, with less of bloodshed than Bonaparte occasioned there, to Placentia and Bologna. At Placentia we had a tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, and rain. It began in the night, and lasted through the next day. I could not have believed that the country could have been so flooded in the time. 
Some of the rivers which we crossed — and many thanks to the bridges by which we crossed them ! — were rolling down their beds with magnificent force. After full- twenty-four hours of storm we entered Bologna in sunshine, to an eight o'clock dinner.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

from Bref recueil des chofes rares, notables, antiques, citez, fortereffes principales par Jean-Antoine Rigaud, 1601


Plaisance, du Duc de Parme, Cité, Euesché, forte baftionnee reuestue de brique, foffé, contrefcarpe, grand ville, belles longues rues. Il y a vn chafteau fort baftionné & reueftu de brique, fituee du cofté qui regarde à la montaigne qui eft fur le midy, garny de force canons, la porte principale deuers la ville, où y a grand vuide. Le Po paffe à demy mil de la ville du cofté de Millan, duquel endroit eft vn palais appellé la citadelle que ceux de Plaifance font baftir au Duc à fes defpens.
Belle place d'vn cofté le palais de la Iustice, de l'antre les Banquiets, & à la tefte y eft l'Eglife S. François de ladite place, vous voyez la porte du Domou le long d'vne grand rue, l'orloge en ladite place du cofté de S. François. Il ya vn couuent audit Plaifance de l'ordre S. Auguftin portant la camifade, rantez à feize mil efcus, le plus commode & beau qui ce peut voir baftie notre temps.

from Voyage de Jacques le Saige, de Douai à Rome, Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Venise ... par Jacques Le Saige, avant 1523

Du Chastel Sainct Jhan a Plaisanche a douze mille et y a beau chemin. Ce est une bonne ville, et de la a Pontenu a cinq mille. C'est une petitte ville comme une bourgade , il y a tenant le porte le millieur logy que on scauroit trouver. Je croy quil y a bien pour loger deux cens chevaulx. C'est ung plaisir de veoir le pays alentour, qui est fort fertil. Et sy voidt on tant de rossignols que que c'est possible de les ouyr chanter. Car il y a largement arbres et sont par rens et les bleds dessoubs. Le païs est chault, car les gens de bien ne portait que robes de soye ou saye, et les moyennes gens robes de toilles perces fronchiés. Principallement les femmes et les enfans que gardent les bestes au champs nont ne bonnet ne chapeaux, et en ay veu que avoient les cheveulx moitié jaune ad cause de la pluie que chiet sur leurs testes. Nous demourasmes au disner audit Pontenu le seizième d'apvril et despendis 9 gros.
De Pontenu à Florensolle a sept mille, c'est une petite bonne ville, ou il y a des beaus logis, et beau païs alentour, plain de bleds et dabres et de vignes ; nul ne croiroit sil ne le voit ; il n'est point de pareil au monde ; dela au bourcq Sainct Denis a huit mille. Il vint deux varlets au devant de nous pour annochier leurs logis , et battirent quasy lung lautre. Il nous voloient bailler ung escutau soleil en cas que ne fussiesmes bien traictiés. En le fait nous teins- mes au varlet de l'angele. Y demourasmes la au gist audit bourcq, et fusmes tres bien traictiés car nous eusmes plus de dix sortes de viandes et despendis 13 gros.
II nous fut dict que le corps Sainct Donny est audit bourcq.

Friday, June 12, 2009

from Le saint voyage de Jherusalem du seigneur d'Anglure par Ogier d'Anglure (1360?-141.), 1878

Nous partismes de Pavye, qui est tresgrosse, belle et bonne cité, le mardy ensuivant .iij. jour d'aoust; et entrasmes en ladicte barque pour venir a Venise. Et venismes au giste cedit soir a Plaisance, qui est grande et belle cité.

from Voyage à Jérusalem de Philippe de Voisin... par Jean de Belesta, seigneur de La Binela, ca. 1440

Et au bout de trois jours se mist dans une barqua, et en sa compaignie monseigneur de Saint-George et ses serviturs du pais de Flandres, pour faire ledict voiaige. Partirent de ladicte citté de Thiery, le iij jour de may, vers la ville de Casaulx ou se tient le marquis de Montferrat, et a Bassemaine en la duché de Milan, et a Saint Jacobo, et a la ville de Plaisance (qui est grande et belle cité, dit le seigneur d'Anglure), et en la citté de Carmaigne, et tout en ladicte duché.

from The travels of ... father Montfaucon from Paris thro' Italy by Bernard de Montfaucon - 1711 [The Years 1698. 1699]


The 23d Day of July we proceeded to Placentia, and the next to Parma, where we were lodg'd and entertain'd with all possible Demonftrations of Refpect and Affection, in the Monastery of St. John the Evangelist. ... The 16th [May] we proceeded to Placentia, and in the Benedictine Church of St. Sixtus faw the Tombs of Queen Angelberga, and of Margaret, Mother of Alexander Farnefe.

from Voyage d'un amateur des arts en Flandre, dans les Pays-Bas,... par M. de La R*** (J. de la Roche ou Roque), 1783

Entre le Bourg San Donnino, & Fiorenzuola, on paffe à gué la Stirone: les trois ou quatre autres torrens que l'on traverfe enfuite de Fiorenzuola, jufqu'à Plaifance, font fouvente à fec, lorfqu'il y a long-temps qu'il n'a plu.
PLAISANCE: cette Ville eft le plus agréablement fituée, entre le Po & la Trebia: le premier paffe à un demi-mille environ de fes murs; la Trebia coule à un peu plus de diftance. L'enceinte de cette ville eft d'une étendue confidérable; fa population n'excède cependant point douze à quinze mille ames: elle eft affez régulièrement batie; on y remarque de très-longues & larges rues, parfaitement alignées, & quelques places bien percées; mais un filence, une inactivité qui afflige. Elle eft entourée de quelques fortifications, foutenues par une Citadelle: Sa pofition eft telle, qu'elle fe trouve également éloignée de Parme & de Milan... Le Thèatre n'offre rien de remarquable; la Salle communique avec le Palais: elle est agréablement décorée & d'une grandeur convenable au nombre de fpectateurs que la ville peut donner.

from État ancien et moderne des duchés de Florence, Modène, Mantoue... par Casimir Freschot, 1711


La ville de Plaifance eft plus grande & plus riante que cele de Parme, habitée par un peuple riche à cause des priviléges & des éxemptions accordées aux Ecclefiaftiques, dont il y a toujours quelqu'un dans chaque famille, ce qui la rend quafi toute éxemte. On voit fur la grande place les deux belles Statues Equeftres jettés en bronze des Ducs Alexandre Farnèfe & fon fils Ranuce, que le premier fit faire à Anvers pendant qu'il étoit Gouverneur des Pays-bas, & transporter en fuite à Plaifance. Ce qu'il y a de fingulier dans fes Coloffes, eft que l'Ouvrier les a formés comme s'ils étoient exposés aux vents, c'eft pourquoi les habits des Princes, & les crins des chevaux femblent etre emportés par le vent qui les fait plier. Les piédeftaux font chargés de beaux demireliefs de la meme perfection où les principales actions de ces Princes font exprimées en bronze.La place, où font érigées ces Statues eft bornée d'un coté par une Eglife, dans la façade de laquelle il y a une niche & une Statue de Notre Dame, devant laquelle, fur une Galerie qui environne la niche, on chante tous les foirs les Litanies. Ceci fe fait dans les temps que la place eft la plus fréquentée par le monde, qui s'y rend alors pour prendre l'air, & s'y promener avec fes amis: & afin que tout ce peuple foit contraint de feconder la dévotion des Princes, qui l'ont inftitué, la place eft remplie d'archers, qui ont le droit d'oter le chapeau de deflus la tete à tous ceux qui fe tiennent couverts, fans aucune exception des étrangers, ou des gens du pays, qui font contraints de payer quelque argent pourra avoir leurs chapeaux, s'ils font furpris.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

from La promenade utile et récréative de deux parisiens en cent soixante-cinq jours par Pierre Brussel, 1768


Plaifance fut bientot vue; elle eft affez grande, mais médiocrement peuplée, régulierment batie quoique fort ancienne; une rue principale y brille par fa longueur, ornée de hautes brones ou poteaux des deux cotés, par fa direction droite, & par l'Eglife des Auguftins qui a cinq nefs. Dans la place du Chateau font deux Statues Equestres en bron des Farnézes. On ne fçauroit fe laffer d'admirer celle d'Alexandre Farnéze; le bronze paroit avoir la vie & fe mouvoir, tant le Sculpteur (le Moca) a fçu y imprimer le feu de fon imagination; quant à celle de l'autre Farnéze, fils de celui-ci, elle n'aproche pas, à beaucoup près, de la premiere.

from Remarks on several parts of Europe, relating chiefly to their... by John Durant Breval (1680?-1738), 1738

Piacenza afforded my Enquiries nothing new, more than an old Milliary of Constantine the Great, which ftands in one of the Streets; and a noble Reprefentation of the famous Siege of Antwerp, in baf-relief upon the Pedeftal of Duke Alexander's Equeftrian Statue in the Market-place. The Town-houfe, a ftately old Building, was the ancient Palace of the Landi's, Lords of this City, long before it was beftow'd upon the Farneses.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

from Guide du voyageur en Italie... par Jean-Marie-Vincent Audin, 1826


Plaisance est très agréablement situé sur la rive droite du Po, dont les eaux jaunatres ont beaucoup de ressemblance avec celles du fleuve qui arrose la Touraine. Elle est enceinte de remparts qui servent aujourd'hui de promenades. Toutes les habitations, les églises et les palais qui sont, assure-t-on, au nombre de 100, sont en briques. Lorsqu'on parcourt Plaisance, on se croirait plutot dans les détours d'une citadelle du moyen àge que dans les rues d'une ville. Les dehors des maisons est grave jusqu'à inspirer de la tristesse, et le peu d'habitants qu'on y rencontre donne à quelques quartiers l'aspect d'une ville dépeuplée. La grand place est le seul endroit où l'on trouve un peu de vie et de mouvement; là est le palais ducal, fort simple; en face la Podesteria (mairie), monument gothique assez singulier et aux extrémités duquel on voit les deux statues équestres de Rannucolo et d'Alexandre Farnèse. Les tetes sont passables, mais le reste, et surtout les chevaux, sont très mauvais, ainsi que les bas-reliefs et les ornements qui sont sur les piédestaux. La cathédrale est d'architecture gothique et n'a rien de remarquable. Son intérieur est orné d'une foule de peintures assez médiocres, et ce n'est que dans la coupole que l'on trouve des ouvrages de Guerchin et des figures de Louis Carrache. Il est extremement difficile, pour ne pas dire impossible, de jour des détails de cette coupole meme avec une lorgnette. On fait voir encore dans cette église deux tableaux, l'un du chevalier Landi représentant Jésus sur le chemin du Calvaire; l'autre, de M. Camuccini, la présentation au temple; le premier est fort de couleur et d'expression, et pauvre de dessin; l'autre offre un ordonnance de composition belle et simple, un couleur vraie, quoiqu'un peu grele, et fait honneur à l'école moderne d'Italie. En général, les églises de PLaisance, brillantes de ce luxe dont on est si prodigue en Italie, fourmillent d'ornements de mauvais gout et de tableaux médiocres: c'est l'architecture extérieure qui frappe d'étonnement. Le palais Farnèse, de l'autre coté du Po, est un monument massif qu'on prendrait pour une prison ruinée: ce monument n'a jamais été achevé.- Hotels: de Saint-Marc, la Croix-Blanche.- Diligences: Mongieri et compagnie. Population 28,000 habitants.

from Les Deux Voyageurs... par Pierre-Nicolas Anot, 1802


Le fléau dévastateur de la guerre devroit respecter de si belles contrées ces guirlandes si agréables qui enchaînent les arbres et qui ont de la peine même dans la saison où je les ai vues à quitter leur verd feuillage. Une ville située au milieu de ces objets riants, ne mérite-t-elle pas bien le nom de Plaisance ? Toutefois, à mon grand étonnement elle ne m'a point paru remplir exactement l'idée que son nom présente. Elle a il est vrai, quelques places et des édifices décorés mais ce sont des beautés qui brillent dans un désert. On y voit peu de monde. Sa dépopulation seroit-elle une suite de ses malheurs?Ils sont aussi anciens qu'elle. Le Carthaginois Amilcar la bruta .Marius et Cinna s'en firent un boulevard contre le parti de Sylla sortie de ses cendres, elle devint une pomme de discorde entre Othon et Vitellius. Ces deux rivaux ne sont plus rien quand on les compare aux Totila et aux Alboin, qui inondèrent de sang l'infortunée Plaisance. Cette ville depuis ces tristes époques, a presque toujours suivi le sort de Parme et eUe le partage encore aujourd'hui.
L'ornement le plus majestueux de son intérieur, est le double monument que le génie de Jean de Bologne y a élevé. Ce sont deux statues équestres, dont l'une représente Alexandre Farnèse, si connu dans l'Histoire de la Ligue et des révotions des Pays-Bas. Qand je considérois, il y a sept ans l'endroit où il fit jetter un pont sur l'Escaut, malgré l'indignation du fleuve je ne pensois point voir un jour la contrée qui avoit eu ce Héros pour Souverain. Voici l'inscription qu'on lit sous la statue : Alexandro Farnesio, Placentiae, Parmae etc. Duci M. Belgis devictis, Gallis obsidione levatis, Gallico , Placentia Civitas. Invicto Domino suo Equestri hac statuâ sempiternum voluit extare monumentum M. L'artiste a saisi le moment du départ du cheval. La tête est touchée avec tant de feu, que l'on croit entendre ranimât hennir. A côte de cette statue, est celle du fils de ce Prince, Rainuce le Protecteur des arts. J'allai chercher quelque Chef-d'œuvre à la Cathédrale, et j'y en trouvai car quelle est l'Eglise en Italie où on n'en trouve point? Celle-ci avoit perdu deux de ses tableaux les plus estimés, qui enrichissent actuellement le Muséum de Paris.

from Mary Shelley's journal by Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley, 1818


Friday, May 1. -Set out from Milan; sleep at Piacenza. The country is pleasant and fertile.

from Voyage d'un musicien en Italie par Auguste-Louis Blondeau, 1809-1812


En sortant de Lodi, on traverse Sicogliano (sic), village insignifiant, et en suite le Po, l'Eridan de la fable. On traverse cette rivière sur un barque; là finit le Milanais. A l'autre rive commence le duchè de Plaisance. A la sortie du royaume d'Italie, il faut exhiber son passeport et subir les visites vexatoires des douaniers. A très peu de distance du Po est la jolie ville de Plaisance, capitale de la principauté du meme nom, ville entourée de murailles, défendue par une citadelle, ornée de beaux édifices, peuplée de plus de vingt-cinq mille ames, située dans une belle position, grande, bien batie, et pourtant d'un aspect qui me parut triste dans l'intérieur. Je n'eus, à la vérité, qu'une soirée pour l'examiner; j'y dinai et j'y passai la nuit, c'est trop peu pour juger une localité quelconque, aussi je me borne simplement à rapporter l'impression qui me resta après ce court séjour. Cet état, ainsi que celui de Parme, faisait partie de l'Empire français et les douanes s'y exerçaient avec une sévérité presque sauvage: on avait plutot l'air d'etre dévalisé que visité par les cercères qui en gardaient les portes. La grand place de Plaisance est carrée, dallée en pierre dure. Elle a deux façades principales, l'une, batie en brique du genre le plus gothique et ayant cinq grandes arcades pour entrées; en avant de cette façade sont deux chevaux de bronze sur de hauts piédestaux et portant chacun un cavalier de grandeur colossale. L'autre coté, qui est parallèle, est dans un gout plus moderne et n'est pas moins beau, quoique plus simple d'ornements. J'ai remarqué un curieux méridien sur cette place qu'il parcourt dans toute son étendue; il est en cuivre et fixé sur le pavé. Je n'ai pu voir les églises, que l'on m'a dit fort remarquables, mais j'ai vu la salle de spectacle qui est grande et assez belle. J'y vis représenter un drame atroce, dont j'ai oublié le nom, ce que je regrette peu, mais que je fus obligé d'écouter debout, attendu que dans la plus grande partie des salles de spectacles d'Italie, à cette époque, plus de la moitié du parterre était totalment dépourvue de sièges, ce qui me contrariait beaucoup. Je dois dire en passant que le meilleur fromage que l'on consomme en si grande quantité sous le nom de parmesan, se fabrique à Plaisance, d'où il se répand dans le commerce et dans l'Europe.

from An account of divers choice remarks, as well as geographical, as historical ... by Ellis Veryard, 1701


From Lodi we rode to Piacenza (twelve Miles further) an antient Epifcopal City belonging to the Duke of Рarmа, and fituate on the Rivers Po and Trebia, in the moft fertile and pleafant part of Italy. It's fortify'd with a ftrong Wall, Trench, and Citadel ; but the Buildings have nothing extraordinary, excepting the Duke's Palace. In the great Church, the Chappels of S. Corrado and Alexis are curioufly painted by Lanfranco, and the curious Picture of S Martin is by Ludovico Carache. In the Quire of the Benedictines Church, we admired a rare piece of the divine Raphael Vrbin, reprefenting the B. Virgin with Little Jefus, S. Barbara, and others. In the Parochial Church of S. Nazario, we remark'd an extraordinary Work which reprefents S. Michael, painted by Lanfranco. . .
The City is about four Miles in compafs. The Fountain in the Piazza was firft erected by Caefar Auguftus ; and the Statua Equeftris is fet up in memory of Alexander I. Duke of Parma and Piacenza. The Pafture of the adjoyning Territory is efteem'd the beft in Italy, where the Cheefe is much the fame with that of Parma. Here are like-wife divers Springs of Salt water, from which they make very fine Salt.
We faw in this City a monftrous Child, the Son of one Pietro Antonio Configlio, of the City of Bifceglia, in the Province of Apulea. His Face, Hands and Feet were fair and well proportion'd ; but all the reft of his Body, from the Neck downwards, was of a dark Colour, with white Spots intermix'd, and in divers parts cover'd with a hard, callous, and fcaly Subftance, like that of divers Fifh : But, what is yet more ftrange, this Child has fo natural a defire of throwing himfelf into the Water, that fuch as have him under their Care, are very cautious of giving him the leaft
Occafion. This Prodigy, or rather Error of Nature, is afcrib'd to the force of his Mother's Imagination, who, before and after the time of her Conception, went often to the Sea-fide to take the frefh Air, where fhe faw divers Tortoifes, and other Fifh, fporting on the Water, and brought on Shore by the Fifher men, which imprinted fo ftrong and confus'd an Idea in her Intellect as ran conftantly in her mind, and could not be remov'd 'till the time of her Delivery.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

from A Journey to Paris in the year 1698 by DR. Martin Lister


The 12th. Early in the morning to Piacenza, that I might have time to view that city,
which, however contains little worthy of attention. The country changed a good deal
to-day. It is like the flat rich parts of Effex and Suffolk. Houfes are thinner, and
the general face inferior. The inequalities which began yefterday increafe. The two
equeftrian ftatues of Alexander and Rannutio Farnefe, are finely expreffive of life ;
the motion of the horfes, particularly that of Alexander's, is admirable ; and the
whole performance fpirited and alive. They are by John of Bologna, or Moca his eleve.
... From Piacenza, after paffing the Trebbia, the rows of vines are thirty to forty
yards afunder, with heaps of props ten feet long, fet like hop-poles ; very few or no
vines trained to trees. Sleep at Caftel St. Giovanne. 26 miles.

from A journey into various parts of Europe, ... by Thomas Pennington, 1829


Placentia at some distance makes a handsome appearance with its towers and buildings, and we entered it by a strong gate. Placentia, Piacenza, or Plaisance, the Roman, Italian, and French names, derives its name from its situation, and is a fine city, built in a plain, and containing 30,000 persons. The streets are broad and good, and the houses, though not lofty, have a clean and comfortable appearance.
The city is about a quarter of a mile from the Po*, over which is a fine bridge of boats : this river about three miles off receives the river Trebbia, and is broad and rapid. The chief street, called Stradone, is very long, broad, and straight, with a handsome footway ; here is the church of St. Agostino, which has a remarkably fine facade. The Grande Place is very handsome, but its greatest ornament is two noble equestrian statues of Alexander I., the great Duke of Parma and his son Ranuccio I, in fine bronze, with suitable inscriptions, which from their length are here omitted.
...
At Placentia, we experienced much attention, several persons officiating as our conductors, one of whom to our surprise spoke English very well. As an instance of their liberality and good information, on our asking him in the way of conversation, if there were many protestants in the town, he answered. 'No, they were all christians.'
We now began to tread literally on classic ground, as the ancient Via Flaminia, which is connected by the Aemilian, going by Parma, Modena and Bologna, begins here. Although there are four gates at the different parts of the city, yet the fortifications are not strong ; the noble and ancient palace formerly inhabited by the dulces, which is a spacious building of brick, is now converted into a barrack, though there were not more than five hundred soldiers in the town ; such are the changes which a few years produce.
There are here, as in the other towns, strong marks of the devastations of the French, many churches being destroyed, and some shut up.


March 20th. — Left Placentia, at six in the morning, by a very strong gate and drawbridge, on each side of which are very deep moats. Our passports were here examined again and countersigned, a duty which the officers diligently perform. Every traveller ought to be attentive to this indispensable ceremony, as the least informality or neglect will put him to great in- convenience, and retard his journey, as we had before experienced at Turin, and were again doomed to experience at another place, as will be hereafter shewn. The road continued level, the country rich, and the men and women actively employed in agriculture. The Apennines were still on our right, the Tyrol Alps on the left, and of both we had a fine view.

from Information and Directions for Travellers on the Continent by Mariana Starke, 1829

The little province, of which Lodi is the capital, usually gives food to 30,000 cows; and its cheese, improperly called Parmesan, is most excellent. Hence we proceeded to a troublesome Austrian custom-house, near the Po ; and then crossed that fine river, on a pont-volant to Piacenza. This town, seated in a rich and pleasant country, contains several objects of interest; namely, the Cathedral and the Church of La Madonna della Campagna, both adorned with good paintings, the cupola of the former being by Guercino, the angles by Francesconi, and 'the ceiling above the great altar, and frescos behind fields of rice, and every other kind it, by Lodovico Caracci and Procaccino. This church is likewise adorned with a picture of S. Corrado, by Lanfranco, and another of S. Francois Xavier, by Fiamingo; the Angels, in fresco, which surround the latter, being likewise by Fiamingo; and the Ascension, on the ceiling of one of the chapels, by the same master. The Church of the Canonici regolari di S. Agostino, designed by Vignola; the Town-hall, by the same architect ; and two equestrian Statues, the one representing Ranucolo, and the other Alessandro Farnese, by Francesco Moca, also merit notice. Piacenza, though large, is built entirely of brick, not even its palaces excepted; it contains a pretty theatre and good hotels. Here commences the ancient Via Flaminia, constructed during the consulate of Lepidus and Flaminius, and leading to the Via Emilia in Romagna; and not far hence flows that memorable torrent, the Trebbia, whose immense bed travellers drive through on their way to S. Giovanni, in the road to Tortona.
At the distance of half a mile from Piacenza, we crossed a bridge thrown over the Po, having, to our right, the lofty mountains of the Apennine, with villages and farms at their base; and to our left a plain, watered by the abovenamed river. Midway to Fiorenzuola we traversed, on a stonebridge, a torrent called the Nura, and thence drove through the bed of the Larda, always dry in summer, and provided with a narrow bridge, over which carriages pass when the stream is swoln by winter rain. We then proceeded through Fiorenzuola, a small town where, however, there are good inns...

Thursday, May 7, 2009

from The Taylor Papers by Sir Herbert Taylor, 1838


June 5th-7th. We came by Parma and Piacenza, which I had not before seen fine towns and as far as I could learn, satisfied with the rule of Marie Louise, who is a liberal patroness of arts and science ; but the population is very inadequate to the extent of these towns. Palaces are uninhabited or have become storehouses and manufacturies. Whole streets are empty, and there were not any fine shops, nor the appearance of much trade. The country is well cultivated. I cannot help here noticing that Piacenza, as well as Florence, offer contradictions to a recent assertion of Mr. Croker (with reference to the monument proposed to be erected to the Duke of Wellington) that there are not any equestrian statues in Europe other than of Royal personages. There are two Colossi at Piacenza of Alexander Farnese and another Farnese, and there are two or three at Florence of the Medici family.

from the Diaries of Francis Parkman, 1843



At ten in the evening we left Parma. At five in the morning we were at Piacenza. Here we stopped an hour or two. Here again the striking difference between the towns of northern and southern Italy was manifested. The people looked as grave and solemn as the brick fronts of the palaces and churches. The town was just bestirring itself. Well-dressed men were thronging to the cafés for breakfast — the shops were being opened, and the market people coming in with their produce. Tall contadini were driving flocks of goats about the street, stopping and milking one into a little tin measure, whenever some housekeeper or the servant of some café came out to demand 'latte fresco.' There was an amusing concourse of market people in the public piazza, before the lofty front of the old government palace. Cheeses, meat, butter, eggs, and piles of live hens, tied neck and heels as you see them in Canada, were spread in every direction over the pavement, surrounded by sellers and purchasers, both apparently half asleep. At a little distance were two long lines of women and men, each with a basket of eggs in hand, standing immovable with an expression of patient resignation, waiting for a purchaser. The men were little shrivelled farmers, in breeches and broad hats, with staffs in their hands, and dickeys standing up erect, like diminutive Englishmen. High above this motley swarm of helpless humanity rose the statue of some great lord of the Farnese family, seated on horse- back, holding his truncheon of command, as if at the head of an army, and looking as if one act of his single will, or one movement of his armed hand, would be enough to annihilate the whole swarm of poor devils below him.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

from Memoir of the late John Talwin Shewell, to which is appended Notes of his ... by John Talwin Shewell, 1870

At Firenzuola, a small bourg, where we breakfasted, we found comfortable and decent accommodations ; after leaving which a journey of twelve miles enabled us to reach Placentia (or as it is here called, Piacenza) by about four o'clock. This fine and cheerful town, containing about thirty thousand inhabitants, and situated in a rich plain watered by the Po, is celebrated for its antiquity ; of which however no monuments remain, and it is now built entirely of brick. We visited here the Cathedral, an old Lombard structure, and curious both within and without, ... the Church of St. Agostino, the façade of which, by Bagarotte, is of fine proportions, ... The great square, which is spacious, and inclosed on one side by the town hall, constructed of brick by Vignola, and having the Saxon arches of its windows very curiously wrought, contains the equestrian statues of Alessandro and Ranuccio Famese, mounted on fine pedestals, the work of Francesco Mola. They are of brass, and are much admired for their spirited attitude, and for the elegance of their draperies. After a pleasant promenade in the environs, we returned to our comfortable inn of " The Croix Blanc ".

from Two Journeys Through Italy and Switzerland ... by William Thomson, 1835

On the second day we quitted the imperial dominions, and soon entered the duchy of Parma, after crossing the river Po at Piacenza in a very antediluvian sort of barge. We passed through the town without making any halt, and in a short time the vettura was rolling over the ancient via Flaminia.

Monday, April 27, 2009

from Two Hundred and Nine Days By Thomas Jefferson Hogg, 1827


Monday, January 30... As we approached Lodi, we found the snow deeper ; at the Sun, a comfortable little inn, we met with a blazing fire in the sala, and several other travellers, the clients of vetturini, like ourselves: they were from Piacenza, and very civil persons ; they did not confine themselves to mere verbal courtesies, but produced some good, sound, strong wine, which was creditable to the Piacentine vineyards. The lieutenant spoke to me in his German, of which I understood as much as it was my destiny to comprehend, and I answered him in his own language; fortunately for him it had the desired effect; for the Italians asked him, if he did not understand English very well; he answered, no—with the tone and air of a man who does not wish to be believed; they replied, but you have been speaking English all the evening to this gentleman : I did not say any thing ; he therefore got the credit of understanding English ; and was so delighted with me for keeping his secret, and for my acquiescence in his harmless deception, that I narrowly escaped being kissed by him when he too.k leave.The cold, the fatigue of travelling, and the strong wine of Piacenza, induced drowsiness, and enabled me to sleep like a steed that does not dream of his tail:—


" This miller hath so wisely bibbed ale,

That as an hors he snorteth in his sleepe

Ne of his taile behind he tooke no kecpe."


n S

from A Spring in Rome and southern Italy by anonymous [New Monthly Magazine], 1869

At Piacenza the train crossed the Po by a suspension-bridge built over the old bridge of boats, which looked bright and busy as we flew above it, with the villagers in their gay dresses, leading across it horses harnessed to carts of very primitive make. Here the Appenines first came into our view, a low and graceful range still tipped with snow, on our right hand.

from The Farmers' register By Edmund Ruffin, 1839


About two miles from Piacenza we cross the Trebbia, the celebrated scene of Hannibal's victory ; but it is now no more than a torrent, which is dry during the summer, and in winter lays waste all the adjacent country; and not far from it is the Tidone, which covers the fields with sо much sand and gravel, that they are rendered quite unfruitful. It is observable, that almost all the rivers in the Parmesan and Piacentin, make so miserable a havock in the plains, by reason of the cutting down of the woods upon the mountains. 1 bad an opportunity of seeing a large range of them, and, in particular, the Canneto, which the Farnese family let to a company of miners, in search of copper. The design proved unsuccessful, and the woods were rooted up, to the lasting prejudice of the state.

from Travels through Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and Sicily by Friedrich Leopold graf zu Stolberg, 1796


LETTER XXXVIII.Parma, 19th November 1791.... On the 16th in the forenoon, we travelled to Placenza. The country between Milan and Lodi was every where one continued level. The horned cattle were all of a dark red colour. I have no where in Italy feen any motley coloured cattle. The fheep are large, entirely white, and with hanging ears. The fwine are all black, like the. Indian hen.We croffed the Po over a bridge of boats ; beyond which the town rofe, with a noble afpect. It was from its charming fituation, on the banks of this broad river, that the Romans gave it the name of Placentia. ...Placenza, as a city, is not fo beautiful as its fituation would promife ; when we view it from the Milan fide of the Po. It rather appears in ablate of decay.

from Memoirs of mr. Matthias d'Amour by Paul Rodgers, 1836

From Venice we travelled to Parma and Placentia. After we had passed the latter place, our gentlemen in the carriage, and myself on horseback, I observed some hills before us, which I saw we must necessarily pass over. At the first sight of them I thought we should have been there in a few hours, but was surprised when we had travelled a considerable way further, that they seemed as distant as ever. I said nothing to any one, not being willing to expose my own ignorance.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

from The Diary of Frances Lady Shelley, 1817


Next morning at five o'clock we left this old town, and drove for an hour in the dark. Although I had heard strange stories about brigands in these parts, I felt no fear, and slept all the time.
On that same day one courier was stopped near Cremona and robbed of twelve thousand francs ! As they did not take the letters, they had probably received information that he was carrying money. After Piacenza we crossed the Po, over a bridge composed of fifty-two barges. This bridge was made by the French two years ago. Formerly there was a ferry.

from Sights and sensations in Europe by Junius Henri Browne, 1871


Piacenza received its name from the ancient Romans — satirical fellows,
they ! — because there was and is nothing pleasant in it.

from The diary of a Russian lady; by Varvara Fedorovna (Golitsyna) Dukhovskaia, 1876 (1917)


During dinner that same day, I saw by the expression of Sergy's face that he was preparing a surprise for me. And, in fact, he made me awfully happy by announcing that instead of establishing me at Frau Weidemann's boarding-house, he would take me with him to Piacenza, a small town in the neighbourhood of which the manoeuvres would take place. And thus it was settled that we should start on the follow- ing day for the Boromees Islands on Lake Maggiore, and go straight from there to Piacenza. ... On our return to Isola Bella, we took the train to Milan, where we arrived at sunset. Before we went to bed, it was settled that we should go next morning to Piacenza. When I awoke, Sergy made me understand that it would be far more convenient for him to go first by himself to Piacenza, in order to look out for a lodging for me. I was foolish enough to feel horribly hurt, and to take it into my head that my husband wanted to get rid of me. " Oh ! very well, be it so ! " I said to myself, and made the vow to await the end of the manoeuvres at Cernobbio at Frau Weidemann's boarding- house ; and, acting on blind impulse, with quick tears rising to my eyes, I told Sergy I did not want him to be bothered with me and intended to start with the first train to Como. ... One morning I was sitting at my solitary breakfast, when at last a long letter from Sergy was brought to me. I devoured its contents. He wrote in high spirits and gave me all the details of his life at Piacenza, and glowing accounts of the manoeuvres and all he was seeing. Two big rooms were reserved to him at the Hotel San Marco. After lunch, on the day of his arrival, he put on his uniform and went to present himself to the Commandant of Piacenza, in whose drawing-room a group of foreign officers, in the most varied uniforms, were gathered. Such a lot of strangers was quite an event for the little town of Piacenza, which was dressed all over with flags ; a band played in the Square. When Sergy returned to the hotel he found on his table an envelope containing different instructions concerning the manoeuvres, with maps and programmes for every day. The military representatives received a compliment in verse with the following inscription : Dedica agli eccellentissimi signori, che rappresentarono le nazioni in occasione ddla lora venuta a Piacenza. The representatives were entertained with much festivity ; rich banquets were given in their honour. Twenty officers of different armies sat down to table every day : four Austrians, one Bavarian, three Germans, two Belgians, two Swedes, two Englishmen and three Russians. Sergy 's neighbour was a Swedish general, an old trooper belonging to the school of " Gustav Vasa," who probably would never have stirred the world with any striking discovery, being rather narrow-minded. He said to Sergy that whilst travelling in Italy he was very much astonished that all the railway stations were named " Uscita " (which means exit), and was quite bewildered that in this country even children were able to surmount the difficulties of the language, and chatted Italian quite as a matter of course to each other ! The manoeuvres of one division against the other began on the 1 8th August. My husband with his brother-officers got up at daybreak and started by a special train to " Castello Giovanni," where a hillock, surrounded by vineyards, was chosen as point of observation.

from On The Grand Tour by James Boswell, 1765


MONDAY 28 JANUARY 1765. I arrived at noon at Placentia. In crossing the river here I got my trunk sadly wet, so that I was stopped some time to get my things that had suffered dried. I resolved to stay all night. I saw in the market-place two equestrian statues of dukes of Parma. On the fiercest of them some sparrows sat and chirped. It had a singular effect. I saw one fine street, a new elegant church by Vignola, and the Cathedral, in which I found many good pictures. I wished to get to Parma next day, so I sent to the commander of the town begging a permission to have the gates opened at three in the morning. He was obliging enough to order that I might get out at any hour I pleased. I went at night to the opera bouffon, which was really not very bad.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

from Letters from France and Italy 1841 by August Bournonville


By evening we reached Piacenza, a very large city of which I didn't get to see very much except for the Gothic church and the Courthouse Square where there are two fine equestrian statues depicting Alexander and Ranutio Farnese.

from Supplement to "Vacation Rambles" ... 1846, by Thomas Noon Talfourd


After five hours spent in Parma, we resumed the ultra-eternal Aemilian Way, and pursued it until long after dark, when we reached Fiorenzuola, where we found rest and comfort in a large homely inn; and we drank the Vin Santo, wine the colour of blood, but briskly pleasant, and not guilty of very intoxicating qualities.
The next morning, September 20th, we started in rain on another reach of the Way, which stretched through a country as level as it was straight. The weather brightened as we proceeded, and, when we reached Piacenza, allowed us a charming walk on the ramparts, akin to that which we enjoyed at Modena. In a flat and tame country, a grass-grown mound rising in regular circlet round a city wins the peculiar interest which some objects of little beauty inspire, by the speed with which the mind establishes a familiarity with them like old acquaintanceship ; it understands at once the refreshment which the inhabitants derive from the habitual perception of this lowly form of nature; and this feeling here had more in it of affection than at Modena, inasmuch as the ramparts were decaying ; gently mouldering into green like that which surmounted them; and the city wore the air of gentle desolation.
The Duomo, with its strangely adorned porches, its monstrous pedestals, and dark, yet gorgeous variety of architecture, is a striking Lombard church ; but the noblest sight in the city is the Piazza deCavalli, a long terrace before the Palazzo Publico. The old building above it, of great length, in various styles, its lower portion of atone, its higher of brick, but harmonised by time, which has wrought strongly upon it, has something of oriental grandeur ; and at each end of the terrace in front of it is a gigantic bronze statue, one representing the Duke Alexandro, the other his son, Ranuccio, both on horseback, each said to have been cast at one jet. When this terrace is
approached from the opposite street, which is very narrow, and is, therefore, at once disclosed, it is startling in its colossal majesty ; and, associated with the stillness around it and the touches of silent decay, appears a portion of some ancient capital, rescued, like the remains of Nineveh, from the oblivion of ages. Nothing among the Medicean glories of Florence so deeply impressed me as this terrace. After four hours of rest and sight-seeing at Piacenza, we proceeded to the bank of the Po,— which had been long marked out before us like the Rhine, by rows of poplars,—crossed it in heavy rain, and, after various custom-house and passport miseries, the chief object of which, however, was intelligible, we were permitted to sup and sleep at Lodi.

Mémoires du comte Miot de Melito par André-François Miot de Melito - 1858


[4-5 prairial (24-25 mai 1796)]De Reggio je me rendis par Parme et Plaisance à Milan. Les armistices conclus récemment avec les ducs de Modène et de Parme ouvraient sur le territoire de leurs États un libre passage aux Français, et le voisinage de nos armées triomphantes contenait les populations. Mais malgré l'impression d'étonnement et de terreur produite par nos victoires, l'aversion des habitants se manifestait dans toutes les occasions. Quelques révoltes avaient même éclatées, et je fus retenu un jour à Plaisance par celle de Binasco, gros bourg situé entre Milan et Pavie. Cette révolte, à la suite de laquelle la dernière de ces villes ferma ses portes et fit prisonnière la garnison française, avait pris un caractère sérieux et ne fut étouffée que par une sanglante exécution militaire. Comme elle rendait les routes peu sûres, je ne traversai le Pô que lorsque la tranquillité fut rétablie sur les deux rives de ce fleuve.