Thursday, September 25, 2008

from The personal adventures of our own correspondent [of the Times] in Italy by Michael Burke Honan, 1852


We found Plaisance in a state of indescribable confusion ; the inns being crowded to an overflow, and the streets being so thronged with flying parties that it was almost impossible to make one's way. The owner of the carriage refused to let it go further, and I was again at a " non-plus ;" but fortunately in one of the stable-yards I discovered a return carriage for Codogno, and by paying four times the ordinary amount, induced the coachman to start forthwith.
I saw that unless I got before the Austrians on the road to Milan, I must abandon all idea of seeing how the rest of the retreat of the Piedmontese army was conducted, and I was anxious to make my way to Lodi, where, behind the Adda, Charles Albert promised to make a stand. But my troubles were not yet over, and I had at Plaisance to undergo the greatest danger that had occurred to me since the opening of the campaign.
It seems that my bad manner of pronouncing Italian, added to my fair complexion, and desire to push forward, had induced several of the violent, but not fighting patriots, to believe that I was an Austrian, and of course a spy. Many a man was sacrificed for less during the latter days of the war of independence — notwhere the Piedmontese soldiers were found, for they were ready to protect one, but in out-of-the-way places, where native susceptibility or Italian pusillanimity had full play.
I was followed from the inn door by a crowd, till at our arrival at the bridge of boats which crosses the Po, I had to meet a mob of at least a thousand men, all vociferating " Tedescho ! " and " Spia ! " — followed by the consoling word " Morte ! " Happily for me, I retained a moderate share of composure, so standing up in the carriage, I entreated a moment's silence, stated I was an Englishman, and asked if there was any one present who could read. This appeal was answered by a schoolmaster, or a parish clerk, and to him I unfolded, first my British passport, and next the special privilege I had obtained from Charles Albert. This last document was a clencher, as it was written in Italian, and bore all the official seals, and, confirmed by it, the validity of the passport was admitted.
Had I not produced the Italian pass, the other paper would have been disregarded, or rather it exposed me to fresh suspicion, as no one in reality knew what it meant, and the eagle attached to the Austrian minister's visa, rather produced an impression against me.
I saw at a glance, however, that a new doubt was engendered, certainly not creditable to me, and if I were first stopped as an Austrian spy, it was clear I was now sent on as one employed by Charles Albert. The mob cheered me as I drove off, though one moment before they would have spilled my blood, — but such are the risks we correspondents run, though no one thinks of giving us credit for our adventures.
The Piedmontese guard at the foot of the bridge refused to let me pass, but when the officer in command saw my papers, he ordered the road to be left open, no doubt in the full belief that I was employed in my quality of spy on a secret mission for the King. I had not the mortification of hearing any person say that such was his opinion of my occupation, and perhaps I wrong the respectable mob of Plaisance; but I am very quick in seeing what people mean, and I had then, and have still, a moral certainty, that way for me was made in the belief that I was a spy in the service of the good cause.
I crossed the river a second time for the purpose of turning the road on which it was probable the Austrian van-guard was coming, and with the hope of joining at Codogno the main body of our force.
In both these objects I succeeded, and late in the afternoon I arrived at that cheese-making town.

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