from Letters from Italy, Describing the Manners, Customs, Antiquities, Paintings ... by Anna Riggs Miller, 1777 - 1770/1771

We passed another river to day, the famous Trebia; it was neither dangerous nor deep. The weather is very disagreeable here: all this day we have travelled through a thick fog, but just clear enough to find our way. When we reached the town, its appearance was by no means inviting, nor did it improve upon a nearer acquaintance. We drove through a considerable part of it, in order to reach the inn, the best here (sign of St. Mark). The town seems like an assemblage of wretched villages. The houses look like barns, bleak, and ready to fall to ruin; the windows few, narrow, and barred, and the doors as large as those of barns in England. I cannot imagine how this town acquired the appellation of Piacenza; for it is the most unpleasant, raw, foggy, nasty place imaginable. We do not intend to remain here longer than tomorrow, having fixed our little journey to Parma for Monday: therefore adieu; for I must go see what is remarkable at Piacenza, which I shall impart to you most faithfully. I have just concluded the bargain with our host for our dinners and suppers whilst we stay; he demanded forty pauls a-head for each repast, besides our fires; but I have worn him down to twenty-four. What an odious country, where if you do not make the agreement beforehand, you are at the mercy of the inn-keeper, who charges unconscionably; and if you complain to a magistrate, instead of redress, you will probably be benefited in future by following the advice the man of law will lavish upon you, and all gratis; "Never to trust an inn-keeper again, but to make your bargain before-hand" ... Wishing to procure a few of those curious fossils, said to be peculiar to this country, called dentales, I sent a laquai upon that commission; with orders not to return without them: he entered just now with a paper well folded in his hand, which he presented me with seeming satisfaction in his face; but judge of my disappointment, when, upon opening it, the expected dentales were converted into Diablotins (chocolate-drops). He told me without the least feeling, that these were much wholesomer for me than the dentales. Think of the head of this laquais de place of Piacenza; it was too late to find fault.