Sunday, December 13, 2015

from Private Journal of a visit to Egypt and Palestine... (1827) by Lady Judith Cohen Montefiore

Friday, May 25.- We left Milan at five o'clock, scarcely half awake, having enjoyed buth three hours' rest. It rained heavily; but the road was good and level, and we reached Lodi, so celebrated for the battle fought by Napoleon, in time for breakfast; for which, however, we payed dearly, and enjoyed but an indifferent meal. Parmasan cheese, so much esteemed, is the production of this place. On arriving at the banks of the Po, we were informed that it would not be safe to cross it for some time, the wind, which was then blowing violently, rendering the stream as rough as the sea; and the wooden bridge having been, a short time before, carried away by the floods occasioned by the late continued rains. No better situation offering itself, we took our seats on the bench of the custom-house, and rather impatiently watched the tide for an hour and a half, in that cold and bleak resting-place; but this by way of variety. At lenght, however, we were enabled to cross the river in a small boat, arranging for Armstrong and the carriages to follow. We were fourteen minutes in making the passage; but Armstrong and the carriages two hours and a half. This detention obliged us to determine on remaining to-morrow at Piacenza, a dull town, not in the least assimilating with its name.
Saturday, May 26. Piacenza.- We walked to see the two equestrian bronze statues of Ranuzio Farnese and Alesandrio Farnese, father and son. They are greatly admired; as are also the cathedral and the church of la madonna della Campagnia, which has some fine paintings by Guercino, the pupil of Caraccio; and a rich altar-piece of massive silver. We took some excellent coffee at a caffé; and after dinner walked on the promenade, where we observed about a dozen carriages. The experience of this day has convinced us that the Hotel d'Italia is not the best, nor the most to be esteemed for its provisions.
Sunday, May 27.- Having risen at five, we walked to the market-place, where fruit, flowers, and vegetables were on show for sale, as on our market-days in England. Here we refreshed ourselves with coffee, previous to leaving Piacenza, which we did at seven o'clock, and while traces of the drowsy god were still visible on the countenances of our companions; Mr. Mazzara starting first, in his own carriage, to order horses. From this place commences the ancient Flaminian road, constructed during the consulship of Lepidus and Flaminius.

Tuesday, December 1, 2015

from The Journey of the Queen's Ambassadors unto Rome, anno 1555 (Thomas Thirlby, bishop of Ely and viscount Montague Anthony Browne along with Sir Edward Carne) [Harleian Lib. 252, 13.]

from Lodi to Piacenza, twenty miles; passing by a little pile where was shot off ordnance both great and small; The Lords had a banquet in this pile; and after, passed the river of Po with boats; being all over the river, the Lords were received as before, and so passed by the town walls a long while ere ever they came to their lodgings. They being lodged in the house of Signior Francisco Baratiero, in the street called Santo Nazaro (la Signora Hippolita sua moglie, Signior Cesare et Hercole suoi figliouli. Signior Alberico, Alessandero, et Camillo Baratiero nepoti del detto Francisco Baratiero). This city is very strong, and a castle of great force, but not fully finished yet. This town did belong to the Church of Rome. Paulus Tertius
being a Roman born, of the noble house of the Farnesi, and Pope, who willing to advance his own blood, created his son Peter Aliege Duke of Piacenza and Parma, who, for his cruelty and rigour towards his subjects, was slain in his own house; and because he that did kill him was afraid of the Pope, the townsmen delivered their town into the Emperor's hands, the which he hath exempted unto the Dutchy of Milan. This Peter Aliege, the first Duke of Piacenza and Parma, married the base daughter of the French King, and had by her three sons and one daughter; his daughter is married to the Duke of Urbine, and his eldest son named Octavio, is now Duke of Parma; the other two brethren be Cardinals, the one called Cardinal Farnese, who is now Chancellor of Rome, and the other, cardinal St. Angelo, they both being in great estimation with the Pope Paulus Quartus, that now is; so that it is thought that they will procure and stir up war against the Emperor, for recovery of Piacenza for the Duke of Parma. 
Here the Lords remained two days, the 20th and the 21th.

[This was the last embassy which went from England to pay public homage to the See of Rome]

Thursday, November 12, 2015

from A Motor Car Divorce, a novel, 1906 by Louise Closser Hale

We are in Piacenza now. It happened here, the unfolding of The Thought — and the frost. Ever since the encounter in the Five Cucumbers any soul-saving project of mine would have been unseasonable. But the door kept banging in my mind with the cry " have it over — have it over." And so I did, and so it is. 
There was moonlight, and there had been a heavenly drive from nine until midnight along the wide white road, the vast fertile gardens of the plain on either side sending up sweet homey odours of hay and wild rose, and wonderful nightingales in the hedges singing me good luck as we swept past. I never realised before what a motorist I had become, enjoying as I did this broad way that led to destruction. There seemed two of rae. One was in a covert coat exulting in the steady throbbing of the engine, the swift rush through the night, the dangerous twists as we made way for sleeping drivers, the power, the mightiness of this unruly beast which John controlled. The other me was a sick little thing afraid of the road, of the distant obstacles looming up before us that ceased to be distant as instantly as we saw them; of John, of herself, of what must be said when the run was over. And yet the two went on through the night, snuffing in the air, sometimes singing together, their voices in perfect harmony, sometimes calling a greeting to the patrons of a wayside caffè who rose to look, lunged forward to answer, and stood in the silent streets watching the gleam of our rear light as we winked past them. 
When we came upon the larger towns, Modena, Reggio, Parma, many towered, glistening in the white light, we were halted momentarily by the city gates, one sleepy custom officer making a poor show of examining our luggage, while his brother in the business swung open the iron barriers. At Parma John shouted awake a vendor of gasoline, and filled up the tank while the me in the covert coat scurried hastily about the town for a flask of the real Parma violets. She came back without them, and at the farmacia they may be still discussing the oddity of her demand. Then on we went into the sweet, singing moonlight. 
It was John, after all who opened the subject, aided by the proprietor of the San Marco, who had so modernised his hostelry as to build a horror of a cosy comer in my huge room hoping to gladden the eye of the chance American. I had not expected it to happen that way, but when John exclaimed with a good deal of sentiment that this was more like home than any room he had entered for weeks, sighing, I did not remind him that the crazy draperies had never in any way filled a comer of our lives ; instead I went to him quite gently and whispered in his ear. He was only puzzled and thought he hadn't heard aright. I spoke aloud then, standing up before him, and very careful about the cracks in my voice. 
" Yes, John, you have heard it straight, I do. I want to go home. It calls to me. All through the night there has been a crying in my heart for home. And I must tell you, John; just as I told you when I wanted to go away, now I must tell you when I want to go back. We've had a nice trip, dear, but it has been a long time away and — it's very cool at home in August, John." 
I stopped for breath, I might have saved it, he misunderstood. " You'll be all right in the morning, child, you must take my room, it's the cosy comer that's upset you." Again the ludicrous! But I seized his arm with both my hands and talked on rapidly. 
" No, John, it's not the cosy comer, they get full of dust, I never liked them. It's something else you don't quite seem to realise. You don't quite seem to appreciate just what I am offering you. We'll go home by Genoa on that boat, and that John, dear, will be the end of all this foolishness. That's what it is. You see, dear John, my eyes are opened. Say you are happy, John, please say it." 
He looked at me curiously, and when he spoke it was in his office voice. " And so you're backing out. And why? Just tell me that. And why? " 
" This is the better way, the tires don't last forever, and we've accomplished quite enough. We've learned a great deal, John." 
He shook me off. " Accomplished ! " was that John's voice, not hot, but cold with anger. " We've accomplished nothing. We are half way through this stunt, we've everything our way. Our plans worked splendidly, yet here you are, right on the edge of Italy, crying like a quitter to give it up. I tell you I'll not do it." 
I stood petrified by the thing I had feared, but for which I was not at all prepared. How largely is the element of hope a part of woman ! " John, you must be careful. You surely do not urge that we go on when I, I, your wife, would give it up. Think, John, think." 
" I don't need to think," John retorted, walking up and down. " I tell you I want to go on, and do what we have undertaken. It may be for weal and it may be for woe, but you and I will take the chances per agreement." 
I followed him. We were going about in circles. 
"You command me," I cried out. 
" I do," he flung back. 
I fell into our nation's stigma, the cosy comer, and he stood over me with his anger once more under control talking persuasively. 
" It*s the best thing that ever happened to us yet, why stop it now? It's making a woman of you and a manlier man of me." 
My eyes flashed and he resented it. 
" There is a kind of people," he continued slowly, " who go about projecting plans and weakly withdrawing them. We have a name for them back in America. Nobody likes it, nobody would be it, nor have a wife, not even a wife, a short sport." 
I rose right up out of the cosy comer. It was a mighty moment. " John Ward, go on to Paris, but I think you'll find in the years to come that a taller wife can be a shorter sport." 
John gave no sign of comprehension. He scarcely heeded. He had won his point. 

Chapter XIII 

John bears no malice — when he has his way. He even makes excuses for my shortcomings, and let me sleep into the morning blaming himself for the long run which wore upon my nerves. He never knew how little that wild ride had caused my lapsing into lazy hours. Nobody knew in all the Albergo San Marco but myself and the night watchman. 
One may judge how very art nouveau the San Marco had become when an all-night waiter was introduced along with the innovations in twisted electroliers and ash trays made out of curving ladies. I had not expected the waiter. It is quite bad enough to steal through the empty stone corridors of an hotel in a kimono over your nightie with only space staring at you and making hideous faces where your bedroom candle throws no gleam. But to be confronted right in the door of your destination — the reading room — by a sleepy man in shirt sleeves who, "always the politeness," struggled into his coat at your approach (although you yourself had nothing at all to struggle into), and — well, such a turn of affairs is altogether too nerve racking, especially when you love your husband, and yet are fleeing from him with a breaking heart. 
All those things happened to me after I had put down in my book of inner thoughts the dreadful doings of the night, and John was coughing away in the next room — he says he coughs, not snores. First the resolve had come to me after some tears, much fierce indignation, and fine speeches, both to John and to Mrs. Baring. Oh, had they but been present! It was not a crazy resolve or a hasty one, but a very simply formed desire to take the boat from Genoa and to take it quite alone. I didn't mean by that to charter it, but to go without John and without clothes, shorn of my husband and my vanity, home to work. 
Everything was planned systematically. Nothing was done without reason. The midnight prowl to the reading-room, half clad, was emblematic of my final leave taking. The sleeping watchman roused to unusual activity represented but the first of the obstacles that I would have to overcome. This was mastered by a bribe, or the promise of one. I never have my purse when wearing a kimono, but he understood. 
" Silence is all I ask of you," I told him, "please hold the candle and get the key to the reading-room door." 
He did delightedly. He hoped It was going to be an intrigue and asked if he should light the upper hall. I was very stern with him then, and he brought the papers, the ones from Genoa, later found the column for me, and eventually explained what boats were departing and what ones coming in. When he named the outward bound ones he ran away from me, and for those that were entering port he bounded back. He was enjoying my clandestine meeting 
with the newspapers much more than I was, for it is not easy to get the sailings straight, and when I thought how John had always done this for me the tears rushed down like a tidal wave all over the North German Lloyd and blinded me, so that the watchman waiter had to tell the gentilissima signora after all that this day which was dawning being Monday she could so easily get the boat of Thursday the Königin Luise and sail away from sorrow. 
At this gentle prodding for the truth on the part of the romantic waiter I was again severe with him, and yet again was forced humbly to beg his silence. 
Intrigue has its price. He obeyed me to the letter, but in the hope of further developments dogged my footsteps all the morning, and when my fascinated eyes met his he would roll his own, drop the left lid and slyly lay a finger on his lips. John almost caught him as he was bringing in my breakfast, did so, in fact. The wink was too far on the droop to be withdrawn, but with rare presence of mind he worked the other boldly and continued doing so, first the right and then the left like a poor, nervous, twitching wretch, instead of the night errand that he was. His interest in ray welfare hastened our departure. I myself would have stayed on a day in this quaint town with its beautiful churches which no one knows, but in fear that I might miss the Königin Luise he dwelt upon the dangers of the mountains, the suddenness of the tums, the overhanging rocks, until John who would rather face a danger than eat a lobster grew frantic to press on. 
John and I were not bad friends. He was all gentleness, cloaking his satisfaction at the divorcing of me with extra touches of compassion. I, more in sorrow than in anger, accepted what he offered me, sure that my sweetness would leave a deeper memory and a bitterer one when he was free. When he was free! Oh, heaven! Always in my thoughts it has been I who would enjoy that blessing. I had not dreamed that John would prize the privilege also, and now he fights for it, fights for one moment of grass widowerhood, that in the next he may be bound again. Prometheus bound! Was it a vulture that did claw him then, or was it a giraffe? 
(Note: I find at times when overmastered by emotion a tendency to blank verse. I regret that the humiliating cause of these metrics prevents their repetition to the Minerva Club.) 
Anyway, we left at noon, rolling out from a real garage, part of the real hotel, our tank full of gasoline, and more in a demijohnaj ready for a hundred mile drive, over the Apennines once more, to Genoa. 
The watchman waiter ran beside us to point out the road, and my last look over my shoulder embraced a vision of the creature making mad gestures indicating silence. 

Monday, November 9, 2015

from A Journey through Part of the Low-Countries, Germany, Italy and France by Phillip Skippon, Esq. (afterwards Knighted) in Company of celebrated Mr. Ray, Mr. Lister, Mr. Willughby, Mr. Henry Massingbeerd, &c. - 1664

Eight miles further we went thro' Fiorenzuola, a town like the aforementioned Borgo; and, just without it, cross'd the river Arta, a small river at this time, but in rainy seasons a great water, that covers a broad beach. A long foot bridge of brick here. This day we observed the country we rode thro' to be somewhat like the eastern parts of Englandnot level, but rising now and then. We saw large fields not divided with rows of trees, and some pastures, and vineyards planted with low vines. The furrows of their plowed lands were flatted, and the ridges not so crooked as with us in England, and make like beds in a garden. 
Tartufule are found hereabouts.
Feb. 27. We travell'd still on the Via Aemylia, and after 12 miles riding came to Piacenza. About a mile before we reach'd this place we pass'd between two stone pillars set upon old pedestals with inscriptions, and thereabouts the Guasta or open fields began. We entered at Porta di S. Lazaro, where we received a bollettino, and gave somewhat to the searcher, leaving our fire-arms we took a sign to fetch it again. Assoon as we came to the post-house, we took away our port-manteaus with us to a small inn without the walls, giving a little piece of money to the searcher, who did not ask us for any bolletine we receiv'd when we came into the city. The bolletin was printed in this form.

Porta S. Lazaro Piacenza

Adì. (S. Marco._____1664.
Sigr. Filippo Skippon.)
Del luogo di (Ingleterra)
D'anni_____barba_____
Statura_____
Compagni (tre_____)
Arma_____
Alloggia_____
Parte_____
E và_____

P. Pozzoli eletto nell'ufficio
Del Divieto di Palazzo.

We walk'd about this city, and went to the Madonna della Campania, built in the form of a cross, and richly gilt on the roof.
We viewed the outside of the citadel, which is strong and handsome.
A church belonging to the Canonici Regulares is very neat, and indifferently large. It has a double isle, and the innermost row of pillars was double, and the other row double pilasters. The cloister is large, and hath two fair courts high built, and one portico above another on three sides of each court. The canons habit is a white ferge cassock, and over that to their thighs a plaited linen surplice with straight sleeves for their arms to put thro'. They wear black square caps, as other regular priests do.
The domo is a fair church having a handsome piazza before it, where the corn market is kept.
In another piazza before the town-hall are two very large and stately figures on horseback, curiously made of brass, which were on great pedestals adorned with carved stories in brass, and these two inscriptions,

1. Alexandro Farnesio Placentiae, parmae,
   &c. Duci III. SRE Confalonerio perpe-
   tuo, Belgis devictis Belgico, Gallis obsidione
   levatis Gallico. Placentia civitas ob am-
   plissima accepta beneficia ob Placentinum
   nomen sui Nominis gloria ad ultimas usq;
   gentes propagatur invicto Domino suo Eque-
   stri hac statua sempiternum voluit extare
   monimentum.

2. Ranutio farnesio Placentiae, Parmae, &c.
   Duci IIII SRE Confalonerio Perpetuo,
   Custodi justitiae Cultori equitatis, Funda-
   tori quietis, ob Opifices allectos, populum
   auctum, patriam illustratam Placentia
   civitas Principi optimo equestrem statuam
   D.D.

This city is large, and the streets of it are indifferently well built. It is well fortify'd with a good wall, a ditch of water, &c. The river Po runs by it. About 1000 French soldiers in the rown, 400 of which were horse.
The duke hath a palace and a theatre here.
English students (Jesuits?) have a college in this city.
We were told, that it is most proper to say the Dutchy of Parma, and the principality of Piacenza.
A white Muscadine wine is made about Piacenza.
This day, Feb. 27. leave being first ask'd of the post-master, we hir'd horses and a guide for 38 julii, and about half a mile from Piacenza, ferry'd the Po, giving a julia a man. The ferry-boat was made of two boats, turned by a stern that guided it as it was carried downwards by the stream; and it was fstened by a rope to another that was fix'd cross the river upon masts in little boats.

from Dagboek eener reis door een gedeelte van Frankrijk en Italië Harlingen, [1862] by Geertruid W.G.J. Nes-Rinia van Nauta

6 September. Wij hadden bij het binnerijden eenig denkbeeld gekregen van de uitgestrektheid van eene stad, welke vroeger 100,000 inwoners telde, doch thans niet meer dan 30,000 bezit, hetgeen door de ledigheid en het vervallen voorkomen der huizen reeds genoegzaam merkbaar is. Alleen op de groote markt herschte nog eenige levendigheid. Men ziet er een zeer zonderling gothisch gebouw, la Podesteria (stadhuis) van rood gebakken steen, hetwelk niet lelijk is. Aan weerzijden van hetzelve bevinden zich de bronzen statuen te paard van Alessandro en Ranucio Farnese. Aan het einde der stad ziet men het oude kasteel Farnese, hetwelk nimmer is voltooid geworden enhetwelk thans veel van eene oude gevangenis heeft. De kathedrale, die een allerzonderlingsten gevel heeft, met barocque beelden versierd, is zeer groot, doch bezit inwendig niets merkwaardigs, dan een eenvoudig modern altaar van wit marmer. In de kerk St. Giovanni is eene fraaije schilderij van Cammacini, de aanbidding in den tempel voorstellende.

Sunday, November 8, 2015

from The Gladstone Diaries, September 1838, by William Ewart Gladstone

Left Milan at 2¼. 6¼ posts to Piacenza, by 8¾. road flat—country most fertile—but this plain, after a little time, like the Wurmser Loch, though in the opposite sense, defies description. At sunset we had the most delicate rosy tints poured over the whole Eastern sky near the horizon. The lights  were very fine, the atmosphere being moist. The bridge of boats over the Po rough bad and dear. The doganieri of Piacenza having let us go, one began to ask for money literally choked upon it: I was determined he should speak out & pressed him: he was obliged to give it up: then the other came to the rescue and significantly put his finger into his mouth! As they had given us our congè we thought they might have something—ma.


Tues. Sep. 25.
San Marco at Piacenza; good. 8—7¾. 9¼ Italian posts: spending two hours at Parma, & with innumerable stops for passport, dogana; &c. Asked for money five times today by doganieri. The posting is very good: and we generally changed under five minutes. The country continues rich in the extreme: we find the third crop of hay cutting, with a fourth expected: the vintage in progress: some grape wagons drawn by six oxen; the treading begun: Indian-corn-threshing on a floor in the open air (cf the threshing floor of Araunah the Jebusite): much of the land ploughed up: the longvine festoons most beautiful.
At Piacenza, admired particularly the men of the bronze equestrian statues.
The division of the cupola of the Cathedral into so many as eight compartments has put the artist (Guercino) at a disadvantage as regards his composition?
Evangelists & Sybils are mixed.