...
The road from Alessandria was dusty beyond the description of words, and to heighten our discomfort from the clouds of fine sand that rolled in upon us, came like hurricanes and whirlwinds the three Itala racing-cars from Turin, hurrying on to Bologna in order to try the course and learn its difficulties before the great race next month. It was quite dark when we reached this quaint, mediaeval-looking town, but I made up my mind to smile, however forbidding the Albergo San Marco (recommended by the Touring Club book) seemed to be. We twisted and turned in the dimly lighted streets, hedged in on both sides by high, sinister-looking palaces. To our surprise, at the end of one of these very streets we stopped before a brilliantly lighted doorway and an affable, blue-eyed Italian landlord greeted us, first in French, and then, spying "Boston" on our trunks, hastened to be glad to see us in English. We were hot, dusty and tired, and you can easily imagine that a large cool, parlor, with bedroom and perfectly equipped bathroom adjoining, came as a delightful surprise and relief to our wearied selves. It was long past the time of the table d'hote, but an amiable waiter quickly brought us chops, macaroni, and excellent ices, which made us feel friendly toward all the world, and forget those horrid, tooting, dusty, rushing racing-cars, which nearly buried us in dirt a short while before.
We are going to stay over to-morrow, as it is so "comfy" in the hotel, and therb is so much that I want to see in this historic old place.
Affectionately,
T.
PlACENZA, August
My dear M:
We understand quite well now why the streets are so narrow, for although it is really very hot to-day, we re perfectly cool in this great stone hotel, which is shut off from the sun by another stone building opposite; both formerly palaces, with a street only a few feet wide between them.
Last evening F. B. went out to the exposition that is being held on the outskirts of the town, and the people here are looking forward to the dedication of the fine new bridge, when His Majesty the King is coming. The town is awakening to something of its old importance under the stimulus of United Italy; and the really elegant bridge over the Po, which sup- plants the quaint pontoon of boats, is a substantial proof of its recent progress. Toward evening I strolled out into the square to see the pompous brown statues of the Dukes Alessandro and Ranuccio Farnese, with the altogether splendid background of the Palazzo Comunale (1281 a.d.), with its spacious marble arcade and round arched terra cotta windows. Raphael painted his famous Sistine Madonna, now at Dresden, for the ancient church of San Sisto here, but the painting was bought in 1753 by Augustus III, King of Poland and Elector of Saxony, for twenty thousand ducats, and a copy takes its place. Near here is the college Alberoni, founded by, and named for, the famous cardinal who for many years was the all-powerful Minister of Philip V of Spain, and a native of this town. By the terms of the cardinal's gift sixty poor youths enjoy free education. Here Alberoni spent his last years after his fall from power, dying in 1752.
There are some good pictures by Sandro Botticelli, Antonello da Messina, etc., in the Museo Civico, and I dare say many other things we have not seen.
We have come all this way without having to stop one minute even for "Antonio" to catch his breath, and I am beginning to think he is in some way- enchanted, though I almost wish I had not written you of this, for probably now our woes will begin. Please tell all the people at home before I have time to change my mind that there is nothing like a " Fiat."
Good-night. More to-morrow.
T.
EMILIA, Bologna, August
My dear M:
Do you remember our last visit here, and how we sat in solemn silence in the gray old rooms of this hotel, trying to decide the direction of the rest of our trip on that dreadfully rainy day? Well, our visit this time is to be only overnight, as we go on to Rimini in the morning. We left Piacenza bright and early this morning, and had a most interesting visit to the wonderful Correggio city of Parma.
